The city of Kabul (population 4 million) sits at 5800 feet (1800 meters) above sea level in a valley surrounded by the Hindu Kush Mountains.  Famous for being one of the most war-ravaged cities in recent times, Kabul is now in the midst of massive reconstruction.  Uniquely, the city is bisected by a stark mountain range, with only two narrow passes linking the two sides of the city, with the population filling in two neighboring valleys in a number "8" fashion.  Famous for its spring-like weather and dramatic mountain views, Kabul today presents a much starker reality.  The markets bustle with activity and traffic can clog the streets.  Burqa-clad widows compete with orphans and amputees to beg along the dusty and crowded roads that wind through town.  This is one face of post-war Afghanistan.   On the other hand, Afghan ingenuity and the incredible will to succeed will surprise and please you.  You will witness not only the historic and monumental sides of Kabul, but will see a nation lifting itself up and charging toward progress.